Leatherby’s Café Rouge Proves to be a Showstopper

Leatherby’s, in the Renee and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, has reopened after its major remodel and revamp of the menu that is now heavy on steaks. The new dining room is open and airy and features striking globe light fixtures that extend from branch-like arms above the banquettes. Patina Group founder Joachim Splichal and new executive chef Greg Stillman, whose resume includes a stint at Napa Valley’s French Laundry, are focused on premium steaks served with a choice of five house-made sauces. Elaborately presented starters—such as roasted baby beets with pickled mustard seeds, goat cheese, and dill, and a foie gras torchon with quince relish—are showstoppers. Winning sides include heirloom carrots with labneh and dukkah spice, and mac ’n’ cheese with fontina, cheddar, and Parmesan. Desserts also shine. A favorite is the tropical parfait of banana caramel, coconut panna cotta, pineapple gelée, caramelized white chocolate mousse, and passion fruit sponge, but the Valrhona chocolate Beggar’s Purse is equally fine.
615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-429-7640

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