Classic Filipino Dishes With a Modern Take at Irenia

Chef Ryan Garlitos, former sous chef at Taco Maria, and GM Sarah Mosqueda hosted Filipino pop-up dinners for about a year before opening Irenia—named for Garlitos’ grandmother—in the former North Left space. Gifted pastry chef Ashley Guzman, who started at North Left and did a brief star turn at Social in Costa Mesa, is also part of the team. Modern Filipino dishes are elevated with unexpected ingredients. The tightly edited menu features snacks such as mani, roasted shell-on peanuts with muscavado vinegar and harissa; and dilis, fried baby anchovies. Kulipor is a roasted cauliflower dish, and the Santa Barbara ridgeback prawns, above, are tossed with noodles, snap peas, and Blue Lake green beans. Desserts such as panna cotta and a meringue pie incorporate fruits and vegetables, including corn. As for cocktails, consider a Bottle Rocket, with mezcal, ancho, tamarind, bergamot bitters, and tajin. Or the Kape at Yosi, with rum, coffee Fernet, smoked sugar, chocolate bitters, and pandan. 400 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, 657-245-3466, ireniarestaurant.com