Meizhou Dongpo

Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes. Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork.