As much fish as I cook, it’s rarely swordfish. But when I see a pristinely fresh whole loin in the case, and a cooperative fish guy willing to cut scallopine per my instructions (as happened over the weekend at Costa Mesa’s Santa Monica Seafood), I know immediately what’s going to be on the menu: swordfish piccata. Years ago in Portland, my husband had this dish at Jake’s Famous Crawfish, and it’s not overstating things to say it was a revelation. Not the usual inch-thick, terrycloth-textured swordfish steak I was used to seeing (and avoiding), but thin slices lightly dredged in flour, sizzled briefly in a pan, and finished the classic piccata way: Lemon juice, capers, a little butter swirl, and chopped parsley. And yes, that is the Zuni radicchio salad I wrote about previously peeking out from underneath there—thank you for noticing. It was the perfect accompaniment.