As happens, it all came together at the Laguna Niguel Farmers Market Sunday morning. I noticed the English peas my favorite fruit vendor’s daughter was shelling at her mom’s request. She said they were from Smith Farms, whose beautiful stuff is truly hyperlocal, grown in Irvine and Fountain Valley. I scored a pound-plus for myself, which matched up with the Irvine-grown tennis-ball-sized artichokes the guy from OC Produce threw in with my other stuff, and the dependably good Riverside asparagus. Together, these vegetables could mean only one thing: Springtime ragoût. All these tender, chartreuse harbingers of the season get cooked slowly in a little butter, salt, and pepper, with a halved clove of garlic and a couple tablespoons of water. Lid on, low heat, until way done—this is not a crisp-tender trip. Favas—peeled before cooking, please—would also be welcome, as would quartered tiny new potatoes. Spring has definitely sprung.
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