You know the Italian chicken-under-a-brick treatment, which delivers skin with a distinctive crispy quality that no other method seems to produce. I’ve been musing on adapting it for thighs, rather than the semi-boned half bird that is traditional—not that there’s anything wrong with that. Result: Excellent. I marinated thighs in olive oil, chopped marjoram and thyme from the garden, a good hit of chili flakes, salt and pepper, plus a generous drizzle of the Mario Batali olio piccante I pretty much always have on the fridge door. Skin-side down into a hot skillet, another skillet on top filled with many pounds of river rocks. You could of course go the foil-wrapped-brick route, but where I live, river rocks are a convenient natural resource. Not long later, I turned up golden, insane crispiness, and cooked the thighs a bit longer skin-side up. Musing accomplished!