If it’s fagioli al fiasco in my kitchen, it’s probably one of the cooler months of the year—not that January’s been cooperating. Italian for beans cooked in a flask, the simple method requires cloves of garlic, a sprig or two of sage, olive oil, salt, pepper, and long, gentle heat. No actual flask needed, of course—use a Dutch oven or covered casserole. Rinse beans, cover with water by an inch or two, and add the aforementioned seasonings. Bring to a boil, and then tuck into a 275- or 300-degree oven for 2 to 3 hours. Maintain at a delicate simmer, adding a splash of water as necessary. A little oxymoronically, fresh dried beans make all the diff; buy where there’s high turnover. I recently cooked the Christmas limas in the photo from Napa-based Rancho Gordo, but our Orange County natural-foods and Middle Eastern markets are excellent sources.