Park Ave Breaks the Burrata Rule

The promise of kumquat encourages an exception

One of my few restaurant rules is: don’t order burrata. Not because I don’t like it—I love it! But it’s something I serve at burrata kumquathome. What’s easier than popping open a tub of cheese, slicing a tomato, and adding crunchy salt, cracked pepper, and a sluice of olive oil?

However, at lunch the other day at Stanton’s Park Ave, I ordered burrata. Certainly there’s an element of missing it as I anticipate summer tomatoes, but what made it absolutely irresistible was the indicated garnish: burrata PAG kumquat and honey ($14.25). PAG? Chef David Slay explained that stands for Park Ave Garden. So not just the restaurant’s own kumquats, but also its own honey. It wasn’t the extreme locavorism that got me, though. It was the immediate certainty on my mental palate of how perfectly kumquat and honey would benefit burrata. I brake for kumquats. Remember I just bought some at the Tustin honor system fruit stand? And honey’s only one of the most perfect substances on earth. Add in the aforementioned cracked black pepper offered by our nice server Rachel, and I had a whole bunch of reasons to not regret breaking my burrata rule.

Starting this Sunday, there’s something new in the park at Park Ave on weekends—barbecue! From 10:30 a.m. until they’re out, a variety of meats and seafood including St. Louis-style baby back ribs.

 

 

 

 

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