Among fine food developments in SoCo Collection, the opening of Surfas has to rank right up there. The new Costa Mesa store is only the second California outpost of the respected Culver City everything-for-the-cook emporium. (There’s a third location in Hot Springs, Arkansas—where co-owner Diana Surfas grew up.) But neither has a luxe Epicurean Center introduced here, where cheese and charcuterie from all over the world fill a long, glass case. On the wall above, yet more cheese rests in a special affinage cabinet, where whole wheels age. The gorgeous truckle of Keen’s farmhouse cheddar pictured ($29.90 a pound), is from famed U.K. cheese merchant Neal’s Yard Dairy. Friendly counter staff can set you up with a flight and a glass of wine at the counter, before or after you’ve strolled the packed aisles, whetting your appetite and exercising your credit card.