Lunch Special: Lobster hand roll

Sushi-wise I tend toward the trad, but as an open-minded person I allow an occasional rule-proving exception to land next to the little pile of pickled ginger.
Take, for example, this lobster hand roll from the specials board at Uoko in Lake Forest, made by the owner, Masa. It’s got it all, all in one—cool, warm, soft, crisp, cooked, raw—pristine ingredients mindfully combined, showing absolute attention to detail, yet suffused with the wabi-sabi of the handmade and the one-of-a-kind. Irresistible.
Uoko, 23600 Rockfield Blvd., Lake Forest, 949-837-7231.

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