Lunch Special: Ahi Poke

There’s lots of ahi poke around. But the sparkling, fairly straightforward version at Newport Beach’s pitch-perfect Bear Flag Fish Co. is a cut above. Impeccably fresh fish dressed with compelling, Asian-Hawaiian seasonings including a detectable, essential hit of aromatic toasted sesame oil is good stuff. But someone—someone brilliant—decreed that crunchalicious El Toro chips, Orange County’s hands-down best (made from fresh-masa tortillas), should accompany, which makes it even better. I love when aftermarket customization isn’t needed, because things have been taken care of on the front end. (Poke, $14.95 a pound.)

Bear Flag Fish Co., 407 31st St., Newport Beach, 949-673-3474

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