Even crab fans from other parts of the world agree that Dungeness is the best. At Lark Creek in Fashion Island, which Orange Coast dining critic Gretchen Kurz reviewed in our January issue and where what’s fresh and in season dictates the menu, chef John Ledbetter offers special dishes throughout February featuring the West Coast treasure. I got a little preview taste last week, the deviled eggs with Dungeness and chipotle aioli ($9) that joined the lunch menu late last month. Crab, egg, chile—pretty much three of my favorite things combined in a single, delicious bite.
Other Dungeness-rich specials spotlighted this month include crab street tacos with spicy slaw, tomatillo-avocado relish ($16), a crab roll sandwich with celery root remoulade and Ledbetter’s famous hand-cut frites ($17), and a combo Louie salad with crab, bay shrimp, avocado, boiled egg, butter lettuce, and Louie dressing ($19). For the Dungeness purist there’s a chilled half-crab cocktail with horseradish root cocktail sauce (market price).