Coffee stouts burble to the surface of the microbrewosphere from time to time. I’d never had one before, though. Now, I think it won’t be long before I have another. At Taps Fish House & Brewery in Brea, Imperial Balinese Stout is a delicious symbiosis engineered by brewmaster Victor Novak from his Imperial Russian Stout and Portola Coffee’s Bali Kintamani beans. (The coffee is specially roasted by Portola proprietor Jeff Duggan the day before Novak brews.) Almost black in color, with a head of thin, fine, tan foam, the beer is richly flavored, but not at all heavy or sweet. Its malty coffeeness, or its coffee maltiness, makes the perfect dessert sip at the end of a Taps Sunday brunch. It’s in limited supply, so no growler fills or happy hour pricing (a tulip glass is $7).