Photo by Curt Norris
I bet this isn’t your mama’s hash. Certainly not my mom’s hodgepodge of leftovers and pragmatic whatnots, an impromptu mix of last night’s meat scraps and vegetables from the bin.
French-born Executive Chef Yvon Goetz creates a hash of an entirely different sort. Served as a brunch entrée at The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar on the waterfront in Newport Beach, Goetz’ well-planned hash boasts flavors that are perfectly balanced, as well as a mingling of textures that make for welcome contrasts. That’s especially true when the short rib based dish is served with a side of mixed green salad adorned with sweet red grapes.
The term “hash” comes from the French word “hacher,” meaning “to chop,” so it seems perfectly acceptable for him to give this dish a toney French interpretation. His Zinfandel braised beef short ribs are cooked classically – long, slow, moist heat yields them alluringly tender. They team with fingerling potatoes, wild mushrooms, grilled asparagus and fresh herbs. Napping each element is the reduced and strained braising juice. The finale is the addition of a sunny-side up egg. Superb.
Home cooks with a make-ahead strategy can get two dishes out of their efforts by increasing the amount of beef and vegetables. It could be dinner party fare one night served as braised beef accompanied with fingerling potatoes and grilled asparagus. Leftovers incorporated into a snazzy brunch dish the next day would make it a twofer. My mother would be happy about that.
Favorite Knife, A Classic: Goetz loves the shape of a tourne knife. The blade is curved like a bird’s beak. In French kitchens it is used for “tournéeing” root vegetables (skillfully making them into little football shapes). The knife is great for peeling vegetables and fruit.
Breakfast routine: Often it’s artisanal bread, Irish butter and blueberry jam.
Farmer’s skill: He starts his day in the backyard of his Laguna Niguel home, working on the fruits and vegetables that grow in bountiful raised beds. His favorite grow-at-home produce includes kale and zucchini, tomatoes and pineapples.
The walls: He collects and frames old wine labels and menus for his home. A menu signed by legendary chef Paul Bocuse is one of his treasures.
Sunday Brunch is served from 11AM to 2 PM at The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar in Newport Beach, 3131 West Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach. Reservations recommended. 949-999-6622. Also try the Crème Brulee French Toast.
Zinfandel Braised Short Ribs, Wild Mushroom & Fingerling Potato Hash
Yield: 8 servings
4 (14-ounce) beef short ribs (bone-in or a smaller amount of boneless meat)
Coarse salt and ground pepper to taste
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon oil (canola combined with olive oil)
1 cup large onion, peeled and diced
1/4 cup (white and light green portion) leeks, diced
1 cup peeled and diced carrots or cut into 3/4-inch chunks
2 stalks celery, diced or cut into 3/4-inch chunks
5 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bottle Zinfandel or other full-bodied red wine
1 quart veal stock (sodium-reduced beef broth can be substituted)
1 teaspoon black peppercorn, crushed
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
16 ounces cooked short ribs
1 cup stained and reduced braising liquid, plus more if needed
1 bunch green asparagus, grilled or roasted, cut into 1-inch pieces, plus more left whole for garnish
2 cups chopped mixed wild mushrooms ( or sliced button mushrooms), sautéed in butter, garlic, salt and pepper
2 cups fingerling potatoes, oven roasted with little oil, salt and pepper, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
About 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
8 large eggs, fried sunny-side up
1. Braising Meat: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Season meat with salt, pepper; dust with flour, shaking off the excess. Heat oil in large skillet on medium high heat and sear the short ribs, turning as needed to deeply brown each side. Remove meat. Reduce heat to medium; add onion, leeks, carrots, celery and garlic in the remaining oil and cook about 4 minutes, tossing as needed. Add the tomato paste and toss to coat; cook about 1 minute and add wine. Turn heat to high and reduce in volume by 1/2 to 2/3. Add veal stock (or broth) and bring to boil; add black peppercorns, bay leaf, bay leaf and thyme. Place meat in ovenproof casserole. Pour the red wine mixture over meat. Cover and cook in preheated oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, or until meat is very tender. When cooked, remove the meat from the stock, strain the stock in a fine mesh strainer and reduce on medium-high heat until syrupy.