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Smackdown: Lobster Roll
The beachy simplicity of this New England seafood treat makes it a natural for O.C. A few rules govern its construction: lobster meat, judiciously dressed with mayonnaise or melted butter, and a soft, open-top bun. With so few ingredients, each must be top quality. We compare two Orange County mobile-vendor contenders.
• Wink’s sandwich is straightforward: lobster meat, melted butter or mayonnaise or both, and a properly griddled roll. $12
• A generous pile of tender meat, with plenty of large chunks, almost spills out of the roll.
• Melted salted butter or Best Foods mayonnaise is flavorful, and sensibly avoids the too-much-of-a-good-thing territory.
• A great sandwich, with each bite delivering tender lobster supported by a crisped roll.
• Lobsta Truck’s roll is imported from New England; meat is dressed with clarified butter or a tangy mayonnaise dressing. $12
• There’s a good amount of meat, but it’s a bit overcooked, and in no danger of overflowing.
• The sandwich is slightly overdressed, and the proprietary sauce’s seasoning is too reminiscent of relish-flecked tartar sauce.
• Good, but could use a little more lobster, a little less dressing, and a leaner, crisper roll.
Lobster rolls are few and far between in O.C. Lobsta Trucks’ are a treat, but Wink’s, above, is the clear winner.
Photograph by Priscilla Iezzi
This article originally appeared in the September issue.