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All about pizza worship and emphatically Italian, right down to the Molino San Felice flour and the glossy red Stefano Ferrara wood-fire oven imported from Italy. These pies—bubbling hot in the middle, with a puffy, spotted ring of crust—require a knife and fork. Don't ignore the cadre of small plates that includes a terrific chopped salad and dandy meatballs the size of softballs.
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