In the ongoing upgrade of restaurants at the Spectrum in Irvine, Paul Martin’s American Grill is yet another player. Open since November, it’s a handsome, strapping venue with 260-plus seats, zero pretension, and a mission to make the journey from
farm to fork as short as possible. A single-page carte of mainly American dishes instantly appeals. It’s familiar, straightforward, and devoid of overly clever menuspeak. Descriptions are short, plain, and complete. “Salt & Pepper Wild Prawns, buttermilk battered with pesto aioli, $17” gets the job done. When questions arise, the friendly servers typically are menu-savvy and ready with cogent answers.