Apiquant Thai salad can be crowned with a mound of seared steak, green papaya, or barbecued shrimp. All are delicious. But branch out and go for larb
, a simple salad of minced meat and roasted ground rice combined with fresh herbs, a scattering of vegetables, and the Thai trinity of fish sauce, lime juice, and chilies. This dish, which crept across the border from Laos, is one by which you can measure any northern Thai restaurant.