We slip into seats at The Golden Truffle’s newly licensed cocktail bar. “How ’bout some goat curry?” asks the chef, the inimitable, pre-Y2K Alan Greeley, arguably O.C.’s first outside-the-box fine-dining guru. Before we order a single drink, he plunks down steaming ramekins of fragrant braised goat over white rice. Thunderously spicy, the heady stew is a warm welcome on a chilly night, and somehow doesn’t interfere with the potent drinks that follow. Bartender Tom Conant mans the cramped bar-counter and ably mixes the classics with a tasteful upgrade, say, using fresh cara cara orange juice in a screwdriver.